Click to expand. Action is measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret at either the 12th or 17th fret. Same thing for neck relief: capo behind first fret, press string down at last fret. Measure space between bottom of string and top of fret at the 8th fret. The result is a fretboard that allows you to play DO-RE-MI-FA-SO-LA-TI-DO as you move up the neck one fret at a time. Using a diatonic fretting style can make it a lot easier to play basic songs, since there are less frets (and therefore notes) to choose from.
Finally got a Gibson SG. I'm trying to set it up and it's DRIVING ME INSANE. I need help.
Hi all- forgive me if this is long.
I just got a 2012 SG, and it's gorgeous. Long story short, I bought my son one earlier this year, I fell in love with it, but because I'm a lefty there's very few options, finally got one. All good. It's basically brand new, the woman selling it was gifted it by HER father who passed away suddenly, so she never got around to learning.
Anyhow, when I first played it, it felt good, but i heard a little buzz on the g string, so I thought 'this is a great excuse for me to finally learn how set up guitars'. I bought Dan Erlewine's book, read it, watched the accompanying DVD, watched scores of videos on Youtube and got myself some basic tools. I understand the basic theory of the elements that need to be adjusted to work in covert together.
I've tried several times, and I cannot get fret buzz to go away. More alarming than that, it just LOOKS wrong. Here's a link to a few photos.
The top photo shows a typical SG bridge and tailpiece. The tailpiece is basically on the wood, just a bit above, and the bridge is raised a little bit up. The strings are not touching the back of the bridge. Everyone's happy.
Under that are three photos of my SG. The bridge is cranked up, and the tailpiece is cranked up WAY higher than I'd like, but even at that height, the strings are rubbing against the back of the bridge. And even with this insane height, I'm getting a decent amount of fret buzz.
I'm looking for any sort of guidance as to a general idea of how high the bridge & tailpiece should be, why my strings are rubbing against it...anything really.
I know I could take this to a luthier, but I like projects, and this seems like a good one for every guitarist to take on. It's very frustrating because I understand the theory-it's just not working.
My first inclination was just to lower the pickups, but that doesn't seem necessary on my fid's SG, or the one in this picture, so why mine?
Help, people. Thanks a ton in advance.
I recently noticed a bow in my guitar and that it has been much harder to play than it should be. I tightened the truss rod to bring the string height back down and unfortunately, the string height is still to high for my taste. Tonight I once again looked at the neck and it was still slightly bowed, concaved that is. I turned the truss rod again to tighten and unbelievably, it was as if I couldn't turn it anymore. I used 1/4 turns and always gradual and slow. Since there is still a bow and my action is not where I want it, does there mean something is wrong with my guitar? I don't feel it is stripped or anything and my neck is not bent, twisted, cracked or anything like that. Thank you guys for all your help.
P.S. Guitar is a PRS SE 7-String - no tremelo.
7 Answers
Truss rod adjustments do not usually affect the neck with an immediate change. Depending on the base wood, it could take 30 minutes to an hour before the truss rod has had it's full effect on the neck. My recommendation would be to wait 30 minutes to an hour and check again.
If you feel you have made the proper adjustments, but your guitar neck is skill skewed, it is possible your neck is warped. However, your neck shouldn't be perfectly straight. Some 7 string guitars come with reinforcement rods, so an adjustment might take even longer to notice.
Quick tip:capo the first and 12th fret and measure the height of the strings before and after an adjustment. That should tell you what affect the adjustment is having.
First port of call - Paul Reed Smith. He may well have seen the problem before. It makes life easier to slacken the strings before tightening the truss rod.While they're loose, try to turn another turn, you'll feel if it's binding or the thread has gone, more easily.
I have a Yamaha FG 110 and the neck warped beyond what the truss rod is capable of correcting. This might have happened because it was stored for many years under full string tension (not a good idea). If the truss rod was broken or stripped it would likely turn too easily. If you can loosen the truss rod but only tighten it so far before it won't turn any more, the truss rod is probably fine. But it is very possible that the neck is warped. I straightened my neck slightly by taking all the strings off and applying pressure over a period of weeks but still could not get the bow out. I just put super light strings on it and keep it tuned half step flat and only use it for occasional practice to save fret wear on my other guitars. It plays fine in first position but Barre chords past the 5th fret are almost impossible to play. If that won't work for you I recommend a new guitar, or a new neck. Attempting to sand and carve and straighten a bowed neck may improve play-ability some, but not enough to justify the expense. Good luck.
I had the same problem, could not tighten the truss rod any further and still a bit of up-bow to the neck. Found a solution on the web that worked for me. If the problem is that there is not enough thread left on the rod for the bolt to move on, it helps to take the bolt off, put a few washers on, and put the bolt on again. This wins you some length of thread, so you can adjust some more. The challenge is to find washers of the right diameter (to fit the rod and to fit the cavity). Also, it helped to do the adjustment with the neck forced straight, or even with a slight down-bow. That way the trussrod does not have to do the pulling work, just to keep the whole contraption in place. Of course this is something to be very careful with - worked for me but no guarantees.
To add to the other answers, the truss rod really isn't for adjusting the action. The truss rod works against the string tension on the neck. To check the truss rod's adjustment you need to hold down the strings to the 1st and 12th fret (e.g. with two capos) with the guitar fully strung and in tune and measure the gap at the 7th fret. This should be somewhere around 7 thousands of an inch or about 0.18mm for a 6 string electric. Not sure about 7-string. The slight bow in the neck helps prevent buzzing on the lower frets with low action. Once the truss rod is properly adjusted the action can be adjusted at the nut and the bridge saddle.
If you can't adjust the guitar within spec it's also possible the frets themselves are worn out and the surface of the neck is no longer straight, in this case the guitar might need a fret job.
I have a Simon and Patrick Songsmith acoustic. The neck would not straighten from too much up bow no matter how much I adjusted the truss rod. I backed off all the strings and put my guitar in the bathroom with the shower on hot for about 15 minutes. To my astonishment the guitar straightened out. Anyone who is having issues and who knows their truss rod isn't broken maybe this experience with help you.
I'm having this same issue, I recently watched a video and I am considering trying the technique. He basically took the neck off and clamped it to a leveling beam with another piece of wood on the backside to prevent damage to the neck. He used 3 clamps. He then put a couple of shims in around the 7th fret to give it the slight bow and baked it in the oven for an hour at 150°.